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Type:c1960 MCM Matisse Renoir Enamel Clip on earrings set
Style:c1960 MCM Matisse Renoir Enamel Clip on earrings set
c1960 MCM Matisse Renoir Enamel Clip on earrings set:c1960 MCM Matisse Renoir Enamel Clip on earrings set
c1960 MCM Matisse Renoir Enamel Clip on earrings set. Unused condition, they
were tucked away in a box when I found them. 1 3/16″ wide.
HISTORY OF MATISSE RENOIR VINTAGE JEWELRY
Matisse jewelry and Renoir jewelry are two separate lines housed under the same
umbrella. They first came into the market during the mid-20th century. Both
vintage jewelry lines used solid copper, which was once again available during
the post-World War II years.
Arts and Crafts Movement Influences
From the 1890s, and extending through several decades, the Arts and Crafts
Movement influenced several United States decorative art styles, including
jewelry making. The movement’s enthusiasts believed in a strong connection
between the artist and their handcrafted work.
First and foremost, Arts and Crafts artisans emphasized the use of top-tier
materials and functional designs.
For example, jewelry makers, like Matisse Renoir, insisted on using solid copper
rather than a copper-coated base metal. The artisans didn’t compromise on this
basic tenet. This was true whether they made a copper bracelet and matching
earrings or a striking copper brooch and clip-on earrings.
Due to metal purification advances, jewelry makers were able to access
higher-quality raw copper materials.
And, improved knowledge of copper’s properties enabled artisans to manipulate
the copper better, producing intricate designs.
In particular, Arts and Crafts-inspired jewelry often features nature images,
such as leaves and berries. A Matisse green enamel leaf brooch is a good example
of this nature-themed motif.
American Mid Century Designers’ Creative Inspirations
The Arts and Crafts Movement certainly influenced 1940s and 1950s jewelry
designers. Many mid-century modern designers incorporated abstraction and
surrealism into their pieces. And, numerous items display biomorphism, or shapes
that bear a resemblance to organic forms.
The bold copper motifs appealed to forward-thinking women who no longer wanted
to wear their mother’s or grandmother’s understated jewelry. For these ladies, a
copper choker, cuff bracelet, or Nefertiti necklace made the perfect accessory
for a night on the town.
Renowned Mid-Century Costume Jewelry Houses
During the post-World War II years, copper was a striking base material for
different jewelry genres. Deco, Native American, and modernist designs
prominently showcased this versatile metal.
Numerous costume jewelry manufacturers jumped on the copper jewelry bandwagon,
each introducing its own line of jewelry accessories. Copper is an extremely
adaptable metal. Not surprisingly, specialized copper jewelry makers understood
its properties best.
As a result, several renowned manufacturers produced most of the highest-quality
vintage jewelry available today. Matisse Renoir copper pieces carry a notable
pedigree. In addition, copper jewelry by Bell Trading Co., Francisco Rebajes,
and Gret Barkin remains very collectible.
Matisse Renoir Copper Jewelry Origins
In 1945, Jerry Fels, a Brooklyn, New York native, moved to California.
Previously a fighter pilot in World War II, Fels had cultivated his design,
painting, and sculpture talents at New York’s National Academy of Design. In
1946, a new jewelry style began to take the United States by storm, and Fels was
at the forefront of it.
Upon his arrival in the Los Angeles area, Fels and his brother-in-law Kurt
Freiler teamed up to create “Renoir of Hollywood.” The two later changed the
name to “Renoir of California,” then to “Hand Made Renoir of California,” before
finally settling on “Renoir.” Renoir specialized in creating copper jewelry that
incorporated bold geometric forms.
Not content to rest on his laurels, Fels launched “Matisse Ltd.” in 1952.
Matisse (which later became part of the Renoir jewelry business) also produced
finely crafted copper jewelry. Matisse’s decorative enameled embellishments set
it apart from Renoir.
From the mid-1950s until 1960, Renoir also marketed a third jewelry line called
“Sauteur Sterling Silver Jewelry.” The Sauteur pieces are much less common than
the companies’ copper jewelry items.
Renoir: A Jewelry Industry Innovator
Renoir was an innovator in the jewelry industry. Besides being at the forefront
of a jewelry style revolution, Renoir jewelry displayed three distinctive
product finishes that set it apart from its competitors. The first finish is the
“Copron” coating, which minimizes tarnishes from fingerprint oils.
Some Renoir jewelry also contains a corrosion-inhibiting shiny lacquer finish
that Fels obtained from an Air Force chemist friend. Unfortunately, Fels didn’t
note the formula, and the company’s chemists couldn’t successfully re-create it.
Finally, the third finish is the shadow. Some modernist jewelry makers
exaggerated their soldered copper marks by adding a black shadowing effect
around the soldered area. Collectors who buy these pieces are advised not to
polish the area to avoid eliminating the shadow.
The Renoir jewelry fabrication facility also pioneered three other innovations.
First, skilled machinists handled all the pre-production prep work. This left
the artisans free to finish, brush, and polish each piece by hand. As a result,
the jewelry attained a handcrafted appearance.
The Renoir shop area benefited from a complicated ventilation system that
prevented workers from breathing dangerous fumes. And, Fels and Freiler often
hired disabled and minority workers, a very uncommon practice during the 1940s
and 1950s. Matisse’s Curtis Tann was a highly respected African American enamel
artist of the era.
Matisse Renoir Ceases Production
Three unfortunate events collectively led to the end of Matisse and Renoir
jewelry production. During the early 1960s, jewelry sales were strong, and the
companies expanded their production facilities.
Then, American jewelry tastes began to change, and the demand for bold geometric
jewelry waned. At the same time, Matisse and Renoir were frequently mounting
expensive legal defenses against cheap copycat manufacturers.
Finally, the companies faced constant problems with a popular (and troublesome)
enamel design. High rejection levels led to massive losses, and finally, the two
companies went bankrupt and closed in 1964.
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